Guide to Cape Town, South Africa

Cape Town is the heart of the South African coastline, a world-renowned metropolis with so much to offer. It has unforgettable trails filled with unique wildlife and flora, colorful architecture, and an exciting food scene.

There are so many reasons to visit the city, but you must do it carefully! All cities have the capacity to be dangerous, those in South Africa happen to be famous for it. Safety is always going to be a topic when discussing this country and it’s one that I weighed carefully before visiting, scouring online accounts of muggings and murders. After experiencing the city, these tips are the best way I can offer you to keep safe:

  1. Stay away from townships. An unfortunate fact of visiting South Africa is seeing a direct result of its cruel history – apartheid. Whether or not you know anything about it, driving around the country its effects are unavoidable. Right beside major cities, generally hidden below a hill in plain sight, townships are extremely impoverished neighborhoods that lack amenities where people of color were forced to live prior to the 1990s. They are shocking to see, clusters of makeshift shacks so close together filled with litter, often no electricity or paved roads, and tons of people walking, walking, walking. It is the worst poverty I have ever seen, and with poverty comes desperation, and then crime. Nyanga is touted as the most dangerous of all townships, just east of Cape Town located near the airport. Like an eye is drawn to a car crash, it’s hard to look away – but these are peoples lives. Leave them be, stay away, and be safe.
  2.  Don’t walk alone, don’t walk at night, don’t walk in the city, period. This is coming from a person who loves to walk all over cities. If you’re renting a car like I did, drive from destination to destination – no matter how close. The one time I parked at one restaurant and decided to walk to a bakery a quarter of a mile away, I immediately felt it was a huge mistake – in the middle of the day. Of course I didn’t know where I was going in a new city, so I wanted to use GoogleMaps. You never want to have your phone out, so looking at the walking directions was difficult. Also, I didn’t know what route it was going to take me on – and I ended up walking through a street that was very uncomfortable. Extremely impoverished protesting refugees lined the sides of the street. Coincidentally, it was probably the worst block in the city. Learn from me, and every local who will tell you in Cape Town, don’t walk in the city. Just drive. Or Uber!
  3. Don’t flash your belongings, as you wouldn’t in any city. Looking around the city, no one has their phone out which is a huge difference from where I come from in New York – where everyone is walking with their phones in hand. Cape Town has a huge poverty rate, so wearing expensive jewelry or waving around electronics could make you a target.
  4. Be in after dark. Nothing good happens after dark! If you want to go to a restaurant later in the evening, uber directly there and back. If you want to have a nightly drink, why not get it from the grocery store and bring it back to your place.

My trip was blissfully uneventful in the safety department, and most travelers do not run into any problems. That’s why so many people keep visiting Cape Town – because they have a wonderful time and love what they’ve seen. Just be a bit more self aware than you would in any other city.

Good to know:

+Driving around Cape Town is just like any other major city. The roads are paved, there are many gas stations, just remember driving is on the left side of the road.

+Grocery stores are plentiful and have everything you are used to, SPAR was the chain that I used most frequently.

+Accommodations range from fancy hotels to hostels, I personally used AirBNB and was very comfortable with all of my various stays. You can use my referral code to get a discount on your first stay by clicking the link above.

Hiking in Cape Town

+Table Mountain defines the landscape of Cape Town, there are many trails to its summit. No matter which route you take to the top it won’t be easy (unless you hop on the cable car!), but the views, environment, and sense of accomplishment are .

+Lion’s Head is a seriously scenic shorter hiking option with some fun ropes to scramble up to its summit.

+Signal Mountain sits beside Lion’s Head and you can take an easy trail to reach it, or drive all the way to the viewpoint.

+Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden is a lovely and safe place to stroll through amazing flora, and also offers intense hiking trails including one which reaches the top of Table Mountain (paid parking).

+Tygerberg Nature Preserve is not a hike typically taken by tourists, but it felt safe and was a relaxing walk with many birds (small entrance fee).

Colorful Neighborhoods

+Bo-Kapp is the Malay quarter filled with colorfully painted houses like you’d see on a tropical island.

+The Muizenberg Beach Huts aren’t visible from the board, but a quick walk onto the sand will reveal a rainbow of merriment.

Foodie Finds

+Eastern Food Bazaar in the middle of downtown offers a regional cuisine called bunny chow, a hollowed out loaf of bread stuffed with delicious curry. Other Indian staples are available as well.

+Biesmiellah has an array of Cape Malay dishes that are popular in South Africa. Here you can find bobotie, salomies, koeksisters, and malva pudding. I had the best chicken curry and roti in the whole country at this restaurant located on the edge of Bo-Kapp.

Daytrip to the Cape Peninsula

+Boulders Beach has a captivating penguin colony where you can get up close and personal with these quirky birds in a gorgeous setting.

+The Cape of Good Hope isn’t the southernmost point of Africa (that’s Cape Agulhas), but it is steeped in wildlife and natural beauty perfect for a day of hiking and sightseeing.

Cape Town is a great jump off for visiting other cities like Hermanus, or taking an amazing coastal road trip called the Gardens Route.

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Guide to the Gardens Route, South Africa: Hermanus to Cape Town

Stone Aged cave dwellings, proteas galore, and the best land based whale watching in the world makes this stretch of South African coastline an exciting one to explore. Less than an hour between these attractions, or two and a half hours of drive will bring you all the way to Cape Town, thus ending the epic and memorable Gardens Route road trip!

+The Klipgat Caves section of Walker Bay Nature Reserve is just one section of this expansive seaside park.

A short and well maintained downhill path brings you to the beach and cave area, where you are left to your own device for exploration – best visited during low tide.

Walk to the left to discover the cave which has been a haven since Stone Age times, 85,000 years ago.

Heading in the opposite direction of the cave, there is a vast stretch of pristine white sand beach which stretches for miles. It is perfect for hiking or lounging, but dangerous for swimming.

If visiting when the tide is out, you never know just what you’ll find in the tide pools,

like this vibrant purple sea urchin – briefly and daily exposed by the pull of the moon.

Or who will be hunting in them – like this endangered African black oystercatcher.

The best thing about this preserve other than the scenery was the fact that no one else was there.

Admission fee or Wildcard required.

+The Fernkloof Nature Reserve is an absolute haven of botanical wonders.

Whether you’re looking for a walk in a garden or a true mountainous hike, you can find a diverse array of paths in this free preserve.

To start with the rambling paths of the garden, you will find a rainbow of magnificent blossoms.

Fun Fact: There are more than 30 species of protea flowers in the preserve, including the King Protea which is the national flower of South Africa.

Proteus was the Greek god who could change his form “to those of beasts who will mock your grasp.”

Nestled into the garden there were numerous birds and some tortoises too!

Continuing on to any of the 37 miles worth of trails in the reserve, you can discover more protea in their natural habitat.

Finding a king protea was especially exciting, it happens to be my favorite flower.

More stunning wildflowers exist outside of the protea family, with shapes and colors just as mesmerizing.

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Hiking to the dams there were plenty of epic views of pinnacle like peaks, and peaceful views out into the bay.

+The Hermanus Cliff Path is a stunning coastal walk that stretches an entire city where you can walk for approximately seven miles one way.

I’ll be covering the section from New Harbour (where you can park in a quiet lot on Stil Street) to Gearings Point in the heart of town (where you can alternately park in a popular lot) which is just about 4 miles round trip.

There are long stretches of trail connected by a few quiet patches of city street on this part of the route.

Sections of trail surface are sometimes paved or boardwalked, and the route is easy with light hills.

Hermanus is renowned for whale watching and touted as the best land based viewing in the world.

You will see informational boards about the species and time of year where they can be spotted, though we were unable to spot any on our November walk.

Whales aren’t the only wildlife you can see, there are plenty of birds and dassies to get excited about as well.

Just taking in the captivating views makes the walk entirely worthwhile, with a wonderful peppering of wildflowers.

At Gearings Point there are a few sculptures that add some flavor to the landscape, one is accompanied by a poem:

‘The world’s decay where the wind’s hands have passed, And my head, out with love, at rest In my hands, and my hands, and my hands full of dust.’

+Stony Point Penguin Colony can be slotted into the road trip towards Cape Town, it will add approximately 30 extra minutes drive time. For a small price you can view a colony of penguins. Since I was visiting the penguins at Boulder Beach on the Cape Peninsula, I skipped this.

This is the Guide to Day 5 of Gardens Route National Park, click the link to help plan the rest of your road trip.

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Guide to the Gardens Route, South Africa: Mossel Bay to Cape Agulhas

From the official start of the Gardens Route in Mossel Bay to an added bonus of this customized itinerary Cape Agulhas takes three hours of driving. Both of the hikes on this day are filled with history and outstanding ocean views.

+The St. Blaize Hiking Trail is 8 miles long one way, but you can hike for as long or as short as you’d like on it and find inspiring coastal views. Start by parking in the spacious light near the Cape St. Blaze Lighthouse, right from the parking lot there is action, dassies are very active in this area and would be with us the entire hike!

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When you get moving head up and check out the cave which has been of interest to people since the Stone Age.

Continuing on the trail can become narrow or rocky, and there are rolling hills – but the views evolve with each bend you reach.

+Agulhas National Park is the southernmost tip of the African continent, an exciting place to explore. Starting off from the lighthouse (which you can walk up for a nominal fee) take the boardwalk down towards the ocean.

It’s a great walk to admire the turquoise water and rocks covered in orange lichen.

There are a few things to seek out here, first you will run into the Southernmost Tip Monument, a map of Africa laid out on the ground.

Next, you will want to find the stone marker at the actual tip where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet.

This is a must stop photo-op spot and it’s usually busy, so make friends with other tourists to snap your picture.

Continue walking out along the coast admiring the scenery, looking at birds and for whales.

Blooming succulents were another welcomed splash of color to the environment.

Keep heading west (with the ocean on your left) along the coast and approximately a mile and half from the lighthouse you will find the Meisho Maru Ship Wreck.

The cape is famously dangerous to sailors, storms and rogue waves have taken many ships to their watery grave. There is nothing between you and Antarctica as you gaze at this rusted wreck.

This is the Guide to Day 4 of Gardens Route National Park, click the link to help plan the rest of your road trip.

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Guide to the Gardens Route, South Africa: Knysna to Wilderness

From Knysna to Wildnerness it will take around 1½ hours of driving, but there is so much to see in between on these diverse hiking trails and view points! Nearby is the city of George which is the largest in the area.

+The Knysna Heads refer to two scenic cliffs narrowly separated by the Knysna lagoon. Exploring the two sides can lead to very different experiences. To access the western head requires a ferry boat ride with Featherbed Nature Reserve. On the other hand, you can drive on the eastern head and find numerous little parks to explore the view. East Head View Point (22 Glen View Rd, The Heads, Knysna, 6571, South Africa) has a short walking trail leading to dazzling vistas from above.

There is also an interesting sculpture adding to the atmosphere.

If you plan on dining in the area seek out the Knysna Oyster, which the town is famous for.

+The Cape Dune Molerat Trail is a lesser visited parcel within the Wilderness section of Gardens Route National Park showcasing the areas lakes. Before you hit the trail make your way to the bird blind, where we had a surprise encounter. A kingfisher was trapped inside for god knows how long – so happy we were able to set it free, and it obliged us with some pictures.

That wasn’t it for the excitement, there were some flamingos adding a splash of color to the scene too.

The blind has some identification boards to help with your sightings. After the birding, continue on to the 3.7 mile loop.

It ascends initially with some nice lake views and has some rolling hills, the track can be sandy and rutted due to its namesake resident digging holes.

We didn’t see any molerats, but an elusive Knysna loerie flew by before I could snag a picture of it. Something that was more my speed with the camera this day was a shy tortoise spotting.

+The Woodville Big Tree is an 800 year old a yellowwood towering over 100 feet tall and almost 40 feet in circumference.

It’s a behemoth just a few steps away from the parking lot, an easy quick activity for those short on time.

Additionally, there is a lovely hike around the forest which was entirely empty during my visit. A scattering of informative plaques detail the flora with some interesting facts.

Wildlife in the forest was active as the evening approached, frogs were croaking in puddles,

and a female boomslang snake slithered in front of us – though I was too surprised to snap a picture of her beautiful bright green belly this is what they look like:

Image taken from Google

Admission fee or Wildcard required.

+Hoekwil Country Cafe is known for its cheesecake (said to be the best in South Africa), which is pretty good, but if they have their carrot cake you must try a slice, which is truly out of this world!

The presentation is pleasant and so is the shady outdoor seating area beside the quaint playground.

Breakfast and lunch are available at the café as well, get there earlier though because closing times vary between 4-5:30 daily.

+The Half Collared Kingfisher Trail is 4.5 miles roundtrip on a well maintained and easy path. It begins from the Ebb-and-Flow Rest Camp located in the Wilderness section of Gardens Route National Park (map).

A lush canopy of trees keeps the path shady, but the sun will break through when you reach the river.

An element of silly adventure ensues, where you pull yourself across the way on a makeshift pontoon – it so much fun and makes the hike very memorable!

Upon making it across, the dirt trail turns into an elaborate boardwalk that surprisingly stretches almost the entire rest of the trail.

The end of the trail is marked by a charming little waterfall, and its surrounding pools make for swimming holes on a hot day.

Admission fee or Wildcard required.

+Map of Africa is a viewpoint which can be visited quickly, but not soon forgotten. Geography fans will see it right away, but others instead might see the head of a crocodile, or something else completely – perhaps nothing at all but a striking river bend.

On the opposite side of the road, just further down the street there is a short ladder over a fence where visitors can take in an additional view of the coast.

This is the Guide to Day 3 of Gardens Route National Park, click the link to help plan the rest of your road trip.

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Guide to the Gardens Route, South Africa: Nature’s Valley to Plettenberg Bay

The drive from Natures Valley to Plettenberg Bay doesn’t take more than an hour – but it’s filled with diverse hiking trails and gorgeous beaches.

Spending the night in Plett, as locals lovingly refer to the town, means there are many options for restaurants, shops, and accommodations as it is a bustling town. If you’re looking for a place to stay, try airbnb get a discount using my referral code on your first booking.

+Nature’s Valley Rest Camp is another parcel of the Tsitsikamma section in Gardens Route National Park. See how things can get a bit confusing?

Take the winding road down descending the valley. When I visited, the main entrance to the rest camp was closed, so I took the dirt road through the woods of the campsite to find the main desk and show them my Wildcard, they didn’t seem to care about collecting fees or handing out maps – but I was able to grab one.

Maps are not found online so planning is a bit difficult, and everything surrounding the Kalanderloof Trail was a bit aloof, including where to begin! The hike is a 2.7 mile loop and it is on the opposite side of the street from the rest camp entrance.

It is not entirely marked, but not the worst either (and worth the mild confusion). There were two spots where I was confused, one around the summit where a few forks went unmarked, and towards the end of the trail where there were some ambiguous turnoffs and I ended up taking the last quarter mile on the quiet road back to the parking lot. However, if you endeavor on this trail you will be rewarded. Not many people do, and we had it all to ourselves. The trail begins through the forest and climbing up to an exposed mountaintop where the views of the Groot River and Indian Ocean are astounding.

The wildflowers were unique and plentiful, adding a pop of color against the dense blues and greens.

I was extremely excited to see my first instance of my favorite flower in the wild – the exquisite protea.

Fun Fact: the protea is the national flower of South Africa. Descending steeply back down into the woods you will pass remarkable Yellowwood trees which must be hundreds of years old.

I certainly think the payoff outweighs the confusion in this case.

+The Salt River Nature Valley Lookout hike begins on the edge of the quaint little town of Nature Valley. It is located right across the way from the Nature’s Valley Restaurant and Pub, and has a restroom at the trailhead.

Start by walking out onto the expansive beach, which would be great for an entire day of fun under the right conditions.

It was a bit windy and cool on this day making it sparsely populated, but nonetheless beautiful for explore the rocky coastline.

Walk west, or when looking at the ocean to the right, and it won’t be long until a sign beckons you into the maritime forest.

A short set of switchbacks climbs through the shade of the woods up to a truly magnificent vista of a perfect crescent cove!

You can head back the way you came, or keep onward and upward. A look at the map above shows the Salt River Route connects to other trails such as the Kalanderkloof for a longer hike. There are no fees from this trailhead.

+The Cathedral Arch Rock is just over a mile roundtrip along the coast of Keurboomstrand Beach. A large and free parking lot with informational signs can be found next to Ristorante Enrico (296 Main St, Keurboomstrand, 6600, South Africa). Take the boardwalk path which rests closely beside the restaurant to the east (when facing the ocean to the left).

Upon leaving the boardwalk and hitting the sand, the beach was windy, really blowing hard on this day – but the walk was well worth it. Stop at the lagoon along the way if you are a birder.

In the parking lot one of the signs gave information about African Black Oystercatchers, a threatened and endemic species. There were many of them feeding along the shore of the lake, make sure to watch from a distance as not to disturb them.

Continuing on the shore becomes even rockier, and I found a mini arch due to the route I chose – it was a lucky spy because I could have easily walked around any other boulder.

Finally, the main event – Cathedral Arch Rock appeared – unavoidable in its massive splendor.

After admiring, continue along the beach further if you please or head back the way you came. Important: You do need to be aware of the tides on this walk, because the arch will be unreachable if they are high. Go at low tide.

+The Robberg Nature Reserve is one of my favorite memories from the Gardens Route road trip, and a top hike of all time.

The full loop around the peninsula is just under seven miles roundtrip, though two shorter loops are possible if you only have time for a taste (hiking to the Gap is just over a mile & to Witsand dune is 2.4 miles). Initially the hike is level with stunning coastal views that stretch into Plett, and even some relaxing boardwalk.

On the north side of the island the wind was extremely strong, some hills and rougher terrain materialize as the trail continues, and most noticeably the scent of cape fur seals fills the air long before you spot them in the sea.

Other wildlife sightings included a lizard that would have been well camouflaged except for its pretty blue markings,

and in addition a pair of amorous locust caught in the act.

Upon reaching the point, the wind ramped up so hard I truly thought I would be blown away! Keeping a low center of gravity was helpful, using a camera wasn’t even a possibility, but it was an experience I’ll never forget even without a picture. Rounding to the south side of the peninsula, the scenery was even more astounding.

Some ropes are in place to help with a narrow descent, now closer to the coastline you are up close and personal with the spraying waves and vibrant orange lichen that paints the sandstone boulders.

Here you may spot a dassie or two, or three – also known as the rock hyrax and aptly situated.

Further ahead is an exceptional sight, an island connected to the mainland through a spit – positively glistening in the sunlight.

When you reach it the dunes are even taller than imagined, and if it weren’t so windy it’d be a lovely beach to lay on. Exploring the island is an option (but after a long day of hiking, we decided to push on).

From this point it is an uphill climb to the end of the hike, with stairs and still great views behind you – never a dull moment on this picturesque adventure. Admission fee or Wildcard required.

This is the Guide to Day 2 of Gardens Route National Park, click the link to help plan the rest of your road trip.

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Guide to the Gardens Route, South Africa: Storms River Mouth

If you only have time for one stop on the Gardens Route, make it Storms River Mouth. Filled with dramatic landscapes, this ‘place of much water’ is where the Storms River pours into the Indian Ocean located within the Tsitsikamma parcel of Gardens Route National Park. Find a myriad of short trails, all worth your time – and the start of the famous multi-day hike called the Otter Trail. This is a busy park, get there early to find quieter trails, and a parking spot.

+The Mouth Trail is 1.25 miles roundtrip and starts at the end of the parks eastern most road. This is an easier trail with some minimal elevation gain. Right from the lot you will have gorgeous coastal views and wildlife sightings.

Dassies (also known as hyraxes) are a strange and adorable creature that are extremely prevalent in the area.

They don’t regulate temperature well, so you can often see them huddling in adorable clusters.

Fun fact: the dassies closest living relative is the elephant! Setting off on the trail across a small swimming beach and onto a boardwalk, mountainous coastal views abound.

A thrilling element of this trail are the bouncy suspension bridges that cross the river.

From there is a rocky cove that was littered with whale bones and baleen.

Climb up to the viewpoint, and take the loop back to where you started.

+The Waterfall Trail is 3.75 miles roundtrip which leads to the beginning of the Otter Trail (hikers cannot go past this point without a permit). This is a moderate trail with some scrambling, appropriate footwear is recommended. The coastal brush was in a magnificent bloom.

It was such a pleasure to spot the various species of colorful wildflowers along the trail.

Locust were dispersed among the plants, slowly going about their day.

Soon the greenery switches to a rocky shore with a new bright colors: orange lichen contrasts against the bright blue of the Indian Ocean.

Rugged coastal views dominate for the remainder of the hike, a truly stunning show.

Take some time to explore a cave along the way, and keep climbing. Gaining a bit of elevation some tide pools begin to appear.

If you examine them, you might discover some exciting life happening, from tadpole to frog.

The end of the line is the Tweeriviere River falls cascading 164 feet all the way down into the sea.

It is the perfect place for a picnic, or a dip in the pool beneath the falls on a warm day. You can create a loop back through the woods, or return the way you came.

+The Loerie and Blue Duiker Trails combined are 3 miles roundtrip, but can be taken in just one direction to create a loop with the Waterfall Trail. You’ll find the coastal forest much quieter than the two aforementioned trails, so if you are looking for a peaceful hike this is it.

Wildlife is abundant and though I was lucky enough to see the striking Knysna Loerie (namesake of the trail), I was unable to snap a picture of the elusive bird.

Image taken from Google

Keep your eyes peeled for the other namesake animal, a miniature antelop called the Blue Dukier. Sad but still beautiful, a dead chameleon was another wildlife sighting.

A small and lovely waterfall sits in the middle of the woods breaking up the dense trees.

Note: Admission fee or Wildcard required to enter Storms River Mouth Restcamp.

+Natures Way Farm Stall is a great place to grab a meal, stock up on gourmet supplies, or spend the night! We stayed at their accommodations available on airbnb which made for a very comfortable night, get a discount using my referral code on your first stay. Walking around the garden and visiting with their sweet cows was such a pleasure.

The pesto grilled cheese was delicious, obvious farm fresh ingredients were shining through. Don’t miss out on the chocolate cake which was something to remember, absolutely decadent!

Eating under the canopy in the company of the sweetest farm cats was so relaxing after a busy day of hiking and sightseeing.

Of course on a road trip you need a lot of snacks, we didn’t have to hit the grocery store this night because the shop had everything you could want – and more! Classic South African bites such as biltong and milk tarts, plus you can find homemade quiches or yogurt for breakfast the next morning.

This is the Guide to Day 1 of Gardens Route National Park, click the link to help plan the rest of your road trip.

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Guide to the Gardens Route Road Trip, South Africa

When I discovered the idea of the Gardens Route in South Africa it was a bit of a mystery to uncover. What I did know is that there was a road trip filled with glorious natural sights, obviously I was intrigued and what transpired was pure magic. If you’re feeling adventurous read on.

The route obtains its name from Gardens Route National Park, which is scattered throughout various towns along the way – officially starting in Mossel Bay and ending in Storms River. There is room for customization, my make your own route began in Port Elizabeth, added on Addo Elephants National Park, and ended in Cape Town. This is a trip that benefits from planning because simply taking the N2 (which is fully paved) isn’t the most exciting part – you have to delve into the little towns, down to the coast, up into the mountains, and find all of the treasures that make this journey unforgettable.

Good to know:

+A straight drive without stopping can be done less than three hours, but I recommend at a minimum three days to take in the sights, a full week is even better.

+Car rental is essential, remember South Africa drives on the left side of the road.

+There are many accommodations, hotels, hostels, on the route – Airbnb worked best for me and if you don’t have an account already use my referral code to get a discount on your first stay.

+Restaurants, grocery stores, and gas stations are plentiful.

+If you’re planning on visiting the national parks along the Gardens Route, on safari, and around the rest of the country it might be cost effective to buy a Wildcard which is used in lieu of admission price.

Sample itinerary:

I flew in from Kruger to Port Elizabeth so my trip went east to west ending in Cape Town, but the route can be taken in either direction.

Day 1: Addo Elephants National Park to add a safari adventure to  your road trip.

Day 2: Storms River Mouth for fantastic hiking and an overnight farm stay.

Day 3: Nature’s Valley to Plettenberg Bay has unforgettable landscapes to discover.

Day 4: Knysna to Wilderness will wow with views and unique trails.

Day 5: Mossel Bay to Cape Agulhas to reach the southernmost tip of Africa.

Day 6: Hermanus to Cape Town ends with whale watching before reaching the city.

My guide is primarily driven for nature lovers and hiking enthusiasts, but there are other ways to enjoy the Gardens Route which is a haven for foodies (ex Knsyna oysters, South Africa’s best cheesecake) and adrenaline seekers (ex one of the worlds highest bungee jumps, great white shark cage diving), as well.

Have you been on the Gardens Route? What were your favorite spots?

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Guide to Addo Elephant National Park Safari, South Africa

For a nature lover, safari is always the answer. On a South African safari there are many options to choose from, Kruger is the most popular choice, but Addo Elephant National Park may be right for you specifically for two reasons:

  1. Addo is not located within a malaria zone
  2. Situated along the coast, it is not necessary to fly into Johannesburg

And a bonus, it is much less crowded than Kruger. There are two main gates in the park and you can easily self-drive the entire route in one day – many of the roads are dirt, but they are in good driving condition for a sedan (map of the park). Make sure to have a full tank of gas before your trip, there are no fuel services in the park.

A daily conservation fee is required to enter the park, or if you purchased a Wildcard that covers admission.

The Sightings

As in the name, Addo is known for its elephants. Thankfully elephants aren’t endangered in South Africa, and safari in this park provides so many enchanting moments with these giants.

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Along with the elephants comes their dung, which is extremely special in this instance. Addo is the only place where the endemic (and endangered) flightless dung beetle lives! Avoid driving over elephant dung for this reason.

The big five and all the species you could desire reside within the park and some snoozing lions were some of the most exciting animals to come across.

Seeing hyenas and jackals duke it out for a snack on an elephant carcass was quite a sight.

Baby mongoose were just about the cutest thing, very transfixed on the car as we passed by.

Stately kudu emerged from the thick brush and grazed along the road, unbothered by a passing vehicle.

We didn’t see hartebeest at Kruger, so finding them plentiful in at Addo was a real treat.Zebra are always dazzling to witness, we were even lucky enough to see some with foals.

Birding opportunities are abundant whether at the watering holes, or just in the brush while driving about.

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At the main rest camp there is a great underground hide to get out of the car and search for wildlife.

You will also find a small museum to learn more about the wildlife and the culture of the region.

Having experienced both Kruger and Addo, it was interesting to see the differences of species and environments – both were very rewarding.

Where to next?

+Addo pairs well with the popular road trip along the South African coast, the Gardens Route, leading into Cape Town.

+If you have more time in the area, consider visiting the coastal portion of the park where you may encounter great white sharks, penguins, and cape fur seals.

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Guide to the Panorama Route, South Africa

The Panorama Route is the perfect detour for your drive between Johannesburg to Kruger National Park, creating a memorable South African roadtrip instead of a tedious haul. Sublime views of unique landscapes and so many massive waterfalls make this a really great adventure. You could get the essence of the area in a day, but there is enough here to base an entire trip!

Good to know:

+Driving in South Africa is on the left side of the road

+The roads are paved and in good condition unless noted otherwise

+Gas up before embarking, stations are infrequent

+There is a fee to just about every site (10-55 rand), have small bills

What to see:

+Three Rondavels and Blyde River Canyon

If you have time for one stop along the route, make it this! The third biggest canyon in the world, Blyde River Canyon is a jawdropping scene.

Just a few steps away from the parking lot there are two viewpoints leading to stunning geological formation, on the left you have the sundial and to the right the three rondavels, which look like the traditional grass huts they were named for. Bathroom and craft vendors available.

+Lowveld View

Just a short ride from the previous site and quite similar in landscape, but worth a stop to see the vista because it is free to enter.

+Bourke’s Luck Potholes

The priciest entrance fee along the route, but likely the place you’ll spend the most time at. A well maintained walking path leads visitors over bridges to see spectacular views.

The calm waters above the falls are great for tidepooling, there are many fish and tadpoles.

Vibrant dragonflies rest calmly beside the pools waiting for opportunity to arise.

Another great feature to this site is the little museum where you can learn about the geology and nature of the region: At the confluence of the Treur and Blyde Rivers, rapids caused narrow vertical fissures in the quartzite. The swirling force of the current and waterborne stones grind into the softer rock layers to form the unique potholes. 

The Blyde River Canyon starts at the point. Additionally there is a short lichen trail beside the museum, often overlooked. Refreshments are sold here, unlike many of the other stops.

+Berlin Falls

Beautiful waterfall to behold, but not much walking allowed. Unfortunately, the path that would lead to the top of the falls and around the rim is restricted. Great for quick viewing, but if low on time or funds, skip this in lieu of more interactive opportunity.

+Lisbon Falls

Find a short and fun hiking trail that leads to an up close view of a spectacular waterfall along with the view of the surrounding valley.

It won’t take too long to enjoy the entirety of this place, but it is a memorable stop on the route.

+Wonder View

Practically right beside the popular paid ‘God’s Window’ stop, this vista that stretches for miles was empty and entirely free.

+The Pinnacle Rock

I really enjoyed this one geologically unique pillar sprouting out of dense flora, a well maintained trail leads to different perspectives of it.

+Mac Mac Falls

Most of the sites have craft vendors, but none of them corral you through the stands like this site does!

It was the only place that felt hawky, but after passing through that there is a nice little walk and its terminus is the tall and slender picturesque waterfall.

+Bridal Veil Falls

I’ll be frank, the road to get here is TERRIBLE! It was the worst road I drove in all of South Africa, but my 2WD car was fine taking it slow. That being said, the drive was absolutely gorgeous and the parking lot was quite full!

This site offered the most length of hiking trail, which was phenomenal to truly get out into nature. Walking to the waterfall is slightly uphill and reaching it doesn’t take too long. It has a unique combination of hues of pink rock wall, green vegetation, and a black rock lined pool.

Right before reaching the falls there is an additional trail marked simply with a bird. The ‘bird’ trail goes on for god knows how long, because there is no map – but it is well marked and I hiked along it happily for an hour with no sign of ending.

In this time, there were additional small waterfalls and some lovely views.

This is not an easy trail it is steep and sometimes precarious, but I didn’t find anyone else along it which made it quite peaceful.

Where to stay:

Sabie, Pilgrim’s Rest, and Graskop are popular towns to spend the night. Many resorts and hotels are dotted along the route, but I prefer staying at AIRBNBs to have the comfort of home and gather local tips. If you don’t already have an account, use my referral code to get a discount!

Next time?

+Waterfalls: Lone Creek Falls, Horseshoe Falls, Sabie Falls, Forest Falls

+Culture: The Shoe Museum, History of Pilgrim’s Rest

+Spelunking: Echo Caves, Sudwala Caves

+Dining: Harrie’s Pancakes in Graskop

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Guide to Safari in Kruger National Park, South Africa

Safari is the trip of a lifetime for a nature lover, and South Africa’s Kruger National Park was everything I could dream of and more. Driving around is surreal, you feel like you’re in a nature documentary watching lions chase hyenas and hippos battling. It is almost unfathomable that the earth in this day and age can be so rich in wildlife, you have to see it to believe it – so here are some tips to help you plan your African safari.

Getting there:

Kruger National Park is located in South Africa, approximately four hours from the international hub of Johannesburg. After landing at O.R. Tambo Airport in Joburg there are two main options to get to the park, I tried them both out:

+You can rent a car and drive to Kruger. In South Africa driving is done on the left side of the road and the route from the airport to the park was on all paved roads.

+You can take a quick flight to one of the multiple airports near the park, or even Skukuza Airport right within the park boundaries, which is where I chose to land.

Where to stay:

I highly recommend staying within the park because overnight guests are able to start their safari drives earlier than day visitors. Main Rest Camp accommodations are simple, but nice. There is a restaurant, grocery store, and gas station at each main camp – many have swimming pools as well. After a long day of driving around it was such a pleasure to fall asleep to the sounds of the animals.

Choosing which camps to stay at can take a bit of planning. Some people prefer to pick one camp to stay at the entire time, trying different routes fanning out from their base. Others prefer to hop around different camps to see more of the park. I chose the latter option and experienced Skukuza, Lower Sabie, and Satara Main Camps. For me, the camp was just a place to shop for groceries, eat my dinner, and get some rest so personally it wasn’t important what amenities were available. People tend to love Lower Sabie because of its location on a river, a great place to watch wildlife. I stayed three nights in Kruger which was perfectly satisfying, but I could envision an entire trip dedicated to the park alone. Pro tip: Book as far in advance as possible because space is limited.

If you stay outside the park there are many hotels, AIRBNBs (if you don’t already have an account, you can use my referral code to receive a discount on your first stay), and private game lodges to choose from.

Getting around:

I loved the freedom and affordability of self-guided safari. After landing in Skukuza Airport, I walked right over to the Budget Car Rental desk and I was on my way to amazing wildlife sightings. Many roads in the park are paved, you could easily stick to them the entire time – but the gravel roads are well maintained for normal cars and a fun adventure. Kruger is roughly the size of Israel or New Jersey for reference, so if you are self driving it is important to be aware of the distances between camps and be back to your accommodation before the gates close and all visitors must be off the roads: this link details drive times. Roads are up on GoogleMaps, but the wifi is terrible in the park. I recommend downloading the area offline on GoogleMaps, and also having the park map PDF downloaded to your phone. Always keep an eye on your fuel and understand that gas stations are located only at main rest camps only. I didn’t chose to take any guided safari cars, but you could easily mix doing both or skip driving all together. One benefit of a guided safari is that you can choose tours outside of gate hours, so you can see the park at night.

What to eat:

Main rest camps have both restaurants and grocery stores. You can find a popular chain restaurant in South Africa at Kruger called Mugg and Bean, which happens to have one of the best lemon meringue pies on the planet (and the slices are gigantic.)

Depending on your type of accommodation you may have your own kitchen, or in the camp you can always use the shared kitchen and braais (bbqs). Grocery stores offer basic needs such as meat to braai, sandwiches, sometimes salads, and canned goods. Pro tip: Bring or purchase instant coffee as there are electric kettles, but no coffee makers.

Safety:

+Stay in your vehicle outside of the camps, the free roaming animals can kill you.

+Keep your windows closed, animals can literally rip you from your vehicle and kill you.

+Respect elephants and give them plenty of room, never go between a mother and its calf. If you notice signs of aggression from an elephant slowly back up, they can flip your car.

+Don’t speed, animals blend into their habitat and can come out of what seems like nowhere. It would be a tragedy to kill the wildlife, but large animals like elephants and giraffes can also kill you in a crash.

+Kruger is in a Malaria zone. I barely saw any mosquitoes (visiting outside of rainy season) and was never bit by one while in the park. I did take malaria medication as a precaution, but in hindsight I didn’t need it. However, if I didn’t take it personally I would have been nervous so it was worth the money to get a prescription from my doctor for peace of mind, especially seeing as I had no adverse side effects from the medication.

+Visiting Africa comes with its own set of safety concerns, outside of safari behavior. Inside the national park I couldn’t have felt safer, it is a bubble in the nation that is filled with crime. If you have any question of personal security hindering you from going on safari (outside of freak accidents), I would say to forget that and plunge into Kruger for the trip of a lifetime.

General Tips:

+Entry to the park requires a Daily Conservation Fee, if you plan on being the park for a longer period of time or visiting other national parks in South Africa it may be cost effective to purchase a Wildcard. You must buy your Wildcard prior to the trip and it will be mailed to you (if it doesn’t come in time just print out your receipt or download it as a PDF to your phone as proof of purchase.)

+Since you cannot get out of your car anywhere, plan to use restrooms as often as you see them at rest camps and picnic sites.

+The only ATM is at Skukuza Main Camp and it wasn’t working when we visited. Luckily you can get cash back from the rest camp stores when using your credit card.

+A pair of binoculars will really enhance your experience.

+Waking up and getting out early is key because animals are most active at dawn and dusk. Many people will take a break midday at a rest camp or picnic site when the heat is strongest, because animals tend to be more scarce. Personally, I kept driving through the midday heat and saw some incredible sites – but continuous driving was tiring.

+You never know what you’re going to see on the road, sightings even in the same place change every day. One route I would recommend is the S100 gravel road, a particularly lauded stretch which I traveled on twice and each time it was spectacular.

Places to get out of the car:

For your safety and that of the wildlife, most of your trip to Kruger will be happily looking out the window from your vehicle. Because of this, any opportunity to get out and stretch your legs is an extra big treat!

+For a great hike head to Berg-en-Dal Rest Camp and hop on the Rhino Walking Trail which starts from the restaurant and follows the perimeter fence including informational boards.

+The Lake Panic bird hide was very active early in the morning, the African pygmy kingfisher was a sight this birder will never forget.

+Sweni bird hide is more remote, but offered what I envisioned of an African watering hole complete with crocodiles and elephants.

+Nkhulu Picnic Site has lovely riverside views, it’s one of the nicest places to have your lunch al fresco in the park.

+Tshokwane Picnic Site doesn’t have the world’s greatest views, but it does have a restaurant which whips up excellent pies. I loved the spinach and feta while my husband devoured his kudu pie.

+Nkumbe View Site is a stunning place to pull off and take in the scenery.

+Of course you can walk around the picnic sites and rest camps, and use your swimming pool.

Safari Sights:

+A huge pride of lions by the Orpen Gate included two adult males, two white lions, and a cub

+Mating giraffes on the main road between Satara and Olifants Rest Camps

+Many roller birds flitted quickly, but this one posed for a photograph

+The southernmost baobab tree

+Elephants shading themselves beneath a tree at midday

+Active watering holes

+Olifants Bridge river view allotted a pack of painted dogs

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